Set Your Intention

My yoga teacher often uses the phrase "set your intention" when preparing us to do a specific pose or series of poses which could be difficult and/or strenuous. When I hear her say this, a decision process occurs in my brain. My "intention" becomes a commitment that is based on my desired outcome for the class and my yoga practice in general. It can change due to physical or emotional health or motivation. What is important about this phrase is that it triggers a response that actively engages my brain with what my body is doing.

This phrase can trigger the same response in a climbing workout or competition. By "setting your intention" before attempting a route or starting a workout drill, you help connect body to mind. And, most likely, you'll be much more satisfied with your effort.

"flow like warm butter-strike like lightning"

Why do we train? Why can't we just climb more to get better? Well, we could, but eventually one or more of three things would happen: 1) We'd get injured, 2)We'd cease to improve because our bodies were not receiving any more stimulation to provoke muscle or technique development, 3) We'd get bored or burned out with our available opportunities. I would agree that if you had the time and money to simply travel around from crag to crag, switching up disciplines every so often, and allowing for periods of rest, and, considering you were extremely motivated to set new standards, then yes, you could get better by simply climbing. However, most of us have significant responsibilities that prevent this lifestyle. So training offers us a way to balance life and climbing, while hopefully preventing injury, targeting weaknesses on which to improve, and keeping things fun and interesting. Furthermore, it puts more tools in our toolboxes. A climber relies on all sorts of skills and strengths to get up a route. These "tools" can be developed through specific training. Lately, I've been expressing the phrase "flow like warm butter-strike like lighting" during practice. Embodying the essence of melted butter or lightning while climbing are tools that, if used appropriately, can help a climber achieve a desired outcome. A tool doesn't need to be a specific strength, like being able to do a one-arm pullup. It can be a state of mind that helps you achieve a specific focus while on the wall or preparing for a route.